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Chanyeol et Kai d'EXO dans une pub de Nature Republic |
Le service militaire prolongé et les stars de la pop n’y sont pas pour rien.
En avril 2014, le Rouge Pur Couture NO.52 d’Yves Saint Laurent (un rouge à lèvres corail) s’est vendu dans pratiquement tous les pays du monde. Sur eBay, le tube à 35 $ est monté jusqu’à 90 $. Il y avait même une liste d’attente sur le e-shop d’Yves Saint Laurent. Pourquoi cet engouement planétaire ? Parce que plus tôt cette même année, Jeon Ji Hyun, la star de 「My Love From Another Star」, un sitcom coréen hyper populaire, portait cette teinte. Enfin disons plutôt, une rumeur a circulé sur le fait qu’elle l’aurait porté. Il n’en a pas fallu plus pour que le marché des cosmétiques en Corée du Sud s’affole.
Peu étonnant que le marché s’ouvre et s’adapte aux hommes. Si on s’en réfère à quelques statistiques, les hommes en Corée du Sud achètent plus de crème pour le visage et de produits pour la peau qu’ailleurs dans le monde et quatre fois plus que le second pays en liste, le Danemark. Les recettes de ce phénomène cosmétique ? Plus d’un milliard de dollars. Un chiffre qui devrait quadrupler en 5 ans. « Il existe une tendance au sensationnalisme » explique Charlotte Cho, co-directrice du site spécialisé dans les cosmétiques coréens SokoGlam.com. « Beaucoup d’hommes portent du maquillage en Corée du Sud et énormément de stars de la pop locale ne lésinent pas sur la mise en beauté. Ça ne veut pas dire que tous les mecs se baladent avec de l’eyeliner dans Seoul ». Elle me raconte que l’explosion des ventes de kits beauté à l’intention des hommes en Corée est intrinsèquement lié à la culture locale – la peau doit toujours être soignée et le visage apprêté.
Le mari de Charlotte, David Cho qui, d’après les dires de sa femme, passe beaucoup de temps à soigner sa peau le matin – propose une réponse différente. La plupart des hommes en Corée du Sud, m’explique-t-il, choisissent de rentrer dans l’armée à leur entrée à l’université. Ce qui veut dire qu’ils sont diplômés, en général, deux ans après leurs camarades femmes. Donc, qu’ils entrent plus tard sur le marché du travail : « La beauté entre en première ligne lorsqu’ils s’agit de trouver du travail. Lorsqu’ils cherchent un emploi, les hommes ont souvent moins d’expérience professionnelle derrière eux. Et la société coréenne trône en matière de hiérarchisation ».
Dans le monde du travail, la préférence est donnée à ceux que la nature a bien gâtés. Ou, par extension, à ceux qui possèdent un physique jeune, pétillant, juvénile. « La culture coréenne met la beauté au-dessus de tout » explique David. Ce n’est pas un hasard si la plupart des boites demandent systématiquement une photo aux candidats qui postulent pour un poste chez elles. « Il est normal pour un homme de porter un peu de fond de teint lors d’une interview à la télé, par exemple » ajoute Charlotte.
« Le paradoxe culturel de ce pays tient en ce que la Corée du Sud reste extrêmement machiste et très conservatrice en matière de politique », pouvait-on lire dans un article récent de『The Economist』. Mais c’est lors de leur service militaire que la plupart des hommes commencent à se mettre aux produits de beauté. « Les coréens ont des standards de beauté très très élevés » commente David. Les kits de camouflage pour l’armée, au même titre que les crèmes solaires, sont à la pointe de la technologie en matière de composition.
En réponse à cette nouvelle loi de la demande, la marque de cosmétiques coréenne Innisfree a doublé sa ligne de produits à l’intention de la gent masculine en service militaire. On peut trouver, dans leurs rayons, des « masques pour finir une dure journée en beauté », vendus dans un packaging qui rappelle les motifs militaires. D'ailleurs, la marque vend également des palettes de maquillage dans les teints bruns et verts « C’est une bonne base pour la peau avant de s’appliquer de la peinture camouflage ».
D’autres enseignes comme Lab Series ou Biotherm ont commencé à se pencher sur la question de la mise en beauté masculine. Lors de son dernier trip en Corée du Sud, il y a trois mois, David a vu « beaucoup plus d’hommes porter de la BB ou de la CC Cream. Au départ, c’était un truc d’adolescent, mais maintenant, je vois des mecs de 30 ou 40 ans ». C’est la vague coréenne, communément appelée « hallyu wave » qui en est la principale responsable : la popularité grandissante de la pop coréenne, plus exactement. Cette nouvelle tendance a littéralement fait basculer les canons de beauté. David se souvient qu’avant « les hommes matures les “ajusshi”, ressemblaient à des papas dans les sitcoms coréens. Aujourd’hui, plus du tout : leur peau est lissée, déridée ». Et plus que jamais, le désir d’une peau parfaite conduit à une montée fulgurante des ventes de BB creams chez les hommes. « Les gens veulent ressembler à ceux qu’ils voient à la télé. Et leur peau est resplendissante ».
Park Tae Yun est un make-up artiste coréenne qui maquille la pop star Rain, les acteurs Chang Wook Ji et Byung Hun Lee– aucun d’entre eux, ne s’aventure dehors ou sous les projecteurs sans crème teintée. Et la plupart de ces hommes n’ont rien contre l’eye-liner. Pour Park Tae, les hommes sont à la recherche « d’un maquillage discret, qui ne les travestit pas mais qui les met en valeur ».
« Mais les pop-stars coréennes sont les plus grands modèles des adolescents, enchaine-t-il. Et après, les hommes ont peur de vieillir et veulent à tout prix rester dans le coup par tous les moyens. Ça ne m’étonnerait pas que cette tendance s’étende aux États-Unis ou à l’Europe ».
J’ai demandé à David, qui a servi l’armée américaine, de quel œil les soldats américains dans les casernes voyaient les coréens se tartiner de masques cosmétiques à la fin de leurs journées. « À part les remarques faussement candides comme le fameux “mais t’es une fille en fait ?” pas grand chose. C’était toujours familial et chaleureux. Ces soldats américaines qui vivent en Corée veulent s’acclimater, s’intégrer. Alors même s’ils ne suivaient pas notre routine à la lettre, ils n’ont pas hésité à nous piquer quelques trucs ».
Si on ne s’attend pas à ce que le rayon BB cream de Sephora soit dévalisé demain par une horde d’hommes, 2016 pourrait bien être l’année où le maquillage masculin a fait la première page des magazines. Si vous en doutez encore, sachez qu’en 2013, un sondage révélait que les hommes dépensaient jusqu’à deux fois plus que les femmes en cosmétiques.
Author: Alice Newell-Hanson/Date: February 04, 2016/Source: https://i-d.vice.com/fr/article/pourquoi-les-hommes-correns-sont-les-plus-grands-consommateurs-de-cosmtiques-au-monde
Ci-dessous la version anglaise originale de l’article, un peu plus précis et avec titre bien plus évocateur !
How korea’s male beauty obsession is challenging gender norms
The South Korean male beauty market is booming – thanks in part to the country's mandatory military service and cult TV dramas.
In April 2014, Yves Saint Laurent’s Rouge Pur Couture No. 52 lipstick (a coral shade) sold out in stores around the world. On eBay, the $35 tube was going for upwards of $90. There was a waitlist of “unspecified” length on Yves Saint Laurent’s e-commerce site. Someone tried, unsuccessfully, to fill their suitcase with handfuls of the lipsticks at a Melbourne airport duty free store.
Why? Because earlier that year, Jeon Ji Hyun, the star of 「My Love From Another Star」, a popular South Korean TV drama, had worn the shade. Or rather, a rumor had circulated that she had. It was later disproved, but this is what the beauty market is like in South Korea – collective obsessions, overnight sellouts, and wild headlines.
But now that everyone in the US has heard about glass nails and snail slime face masks, media attention is turning to the male K-beauty market. Which is understandable when you see the stats. According to a July 2015 report, men in South Korea buy more cosmetics and skincare products that men in any other country around the world, and four times more than the next country on the list, Denmark, contributing to a grooming market worth $1 billion. The market is also expected to quadruple in size over the next five years.
“There’s a tendency to sensationalize, though,” says Charlotte Cho, the co-founder of the New York-based K-beauty site SokoGlam.com. “A lot of men do wear makeup in South Korea,” she tells me over the phone, “and a lot of K-pop stars wear a lot of makeup, but not every guy on the street in Seoul is wearing eyeliner.” She explains the boom in the sale of “cushion compacts” for men as being “part of a general culture in South Korea of people caring about their skin.”
Charlotte’s husband, David Cho– with whom she founded the site and who, she says, has a very elaborate skincare routine – has a slightly different answer though. Most men in South Korea, he explains, choose to complete the country’s mandatory military service during university. This means they’re graduating from college two years after their female classmates and entering the job market later.
“To me, how that relates to beauty is that it’s about getting the best jobs,” says David. When applying for their first positions, men who have served in the military have shorter professional resumes. “And Korea is very status-driven and hierarchical,” David explains.
David served in the military for eight years, and even within the same rank, he says, command would be determined by the year men graduated, and then by academic successes. In the job world, too, precedence is given to candidates according to the year they graduated and, it’s widely believed, according to your appearance. So a youthful appearance (sometimes thanks to products) is paramount. “Korean culture is so driven by how you look,” David says, that companies will often require candidates to include a photo of themselves on their job application. “It’s common for men to wear tinted moisturizer to interviews,” Charlotte adds.
“On the face of it, such preening is at odds with South Korea’s macho, socially conservative culture,” reads a recent piece in『The Economist』. But it’s during their military service that most men first get into beauty products. “Korean people have very high standards when it comes to what they put on their face,” says David. And the army-issue camouflage kits and sunscreens are made with “terrible ingredients.”
In response, Korean beauty brand Innisfree makes products specifically for men in the military. There are “extreme power military masks,” sold in camouflage packaging that come in different formulas for “after field work” and “before going on leave.” And the brand also sells a palette of brown and green makeup “that’s better for your skin when you’re applying camo,” says David.
Other brands like Lab Series and Biotherm have also begun to double down on their men’s lines, and not just to cater to the armed forces. On his last trip back to Korea, two months ago, David saw “a lot more men wearing BB or CC cream. It was always a millennial generation thing but now I’m seeing it with men in their mid-to-late 30s and 40s. It’s all intertwined with the hallyu wave.”
The “hallyu wave” is the meteoric rise in popularity of South Korean soap operas and music. And it’s radically changed conceptions of male beauty. David remembers that “back in the day, older male characters (known as ‘ajusshi’) looked like fathers in K-dramas, now they don’t: they have glowing, unwrinkled skin.” And now, a desire for flawless skin is driving up sales of BB creams, compacts, and tinted moisturizers among men: “women and men want to look like these people and they have perfect skin.”
Park Tae Yun is a South Korean makeup artist who works with the K-pop idol Rain, actors Chang Wook Ji and Byung Hun Lee, and the members of the pop group EXO– none of whom, he says, attend events without makeup. And most of whom are not afraid of eyeliner. Among the population at large though, he says, guys are mainly “seeking out natural looking coverage to even out their skin tone through products such as tinted moisturizers.” They’re not getting kohled-up.
“But K-pop stars are highly influential for Korean men in their 20s,” he says. “And I believe they are an even greater influence to Korean men past their 20s because they are concerned about aging and want to stay on top of the trends.” He adds finally, “It won’t be surprising to me if the US follows this trend.”
For a time, when David Cho was in the US military, he was stationed in South Korea. I ask him how the US soldiers in the barracks reacted to the Korean soliders’ use of facemasks and other beauty products. “Besides the friendly banter, like ‘are you a girl?’ nothing much. It was always friendly. These US soldiers living in Korea wanted to assimilate – even if they weren’t doing a ten-step routine, they did begin to try things.”
While it’s unlikely that men are going to be causing BB cream shortages across the US any time soon, 2016 could be the year makeup for men finally goes mainstream here, if our current K-beauty obsession continues. Watch 「The Sunday Styles」 section.
In April 2014, Yves Saint Laurent’s Rouge Pur Couture No. 52 lipstick (a coral shade) sold out in stores around the world. On eBay, the $35 tube was going for upwards of $90. There was a waitlist of “unspecified” length on Yves Saint Laurent’s e-commerce site. Someone tried, unsuccessfully, to fill their suitcase with handfuls of the lipsticks at a Melbourne airport duty free store.
Why? Because earlier that year, Jeon Ji Hyun, the star of 「My Love From Another Star」, a popular South Korean TV drama, had worn the shade. Or rather, a rumor had circulated that she had. It was later disproved, but this is what the beauty market is like in South Korea – collective obsessions, overnight sellouts, and wild headlines.
But now that everyone in the US has heard about glass nails and snail slime face masks, media attention is turning to the male K-beauty market. Which is understandable when you see the stats. According to a July 2015 report, men in South Korea buy more cosmetics and skincare products that men in any other country around the world, and four times more than the next country on the list, Denmark, contributing to a grooming market worth $1 billion. The market is also expected to quadruple in size over the next five years.
“There’s a tendency to sensationalize, though,” says Charlotte Cho, the co-founder of the New York-based K-beauty site SokoGlam.com. “A lot of men do wear makeup in South Korea,” she tells me over the phone, “and a lot of K-pop stars wear a lot of makeup, but not every guy on the street in Seoul is wearing eyeliner.” She explains the boom in the sale of “cushion compacts” for men as being “part of a general culture in South Korea of people caring about their skin.”
Charlotte’s husband, David Cho– with whom she founded the site and who, she says, has a very elaborate skincare routine – has a slightly different answer though. Most men in South Korea, he explains, choose to complete the country’s mandatory military service during university. This means they’re graduating from college two years after their female classmates and entering the job market later.
“To me, how that relates to beauty is that it’s about getting the best jobs,” says David. When applying for their first positions, men who have served in the military have shorter professional resumes. “And Korea is very status-driven and hierarchical,” David explains.
David served in the military for eight years, and even within the same rank, he says, command would be determined by the year men graduated, and then by academic successes. In the job world, too, precedence is given to candidates according to the year they graduated and, it’s widely believed, according to your appearance. So a youthful appearance (sometimes thanks to products) is paramount. “Korean culture is so driven by how you look,” David says, that companies will often require candidates to include a photo of themselves on their job application. “It’s common for men to wear tinted moisturizer to interviews,” Charlotte adds.
“On the face of it, such preening is at odds with South Korea’s macho, socially conservative culture,” reads a recent piece in『The Economist』. But it’s during their military service that most men first get into beauty products. “Korean people have very high standards when it comes to what they put on their face,” says David. And the army-issue camouflage kits and sunscreens are made with “terrible ingredients.”
In response, Korean beauty brand Innisfree makes products specifically for men in the military. There are “extreme power military masks,” sold in camouflage packaging that come in different formulas for “after field work” and “before going on leave.” And the brand also sells a palette of brown and green makeup “that’s better for your skin when you’re applying camo,” says David.
Other brands like Lab Series and Biotherm have also begun to double down on their men’s lines, and not just to cater to the armed forces. On his last trip back to Korea, two months ago, David saw “a lot more men wearing BB or CC cream. It was always a millennial generation thing but now I’m seeing it with men in their mid-to-late 30s and 40s. It’s all intertwined with the hallyu wave.”
The “hallyu wave” is the meteoric rise in popularity of South Korean soap operas and music. And it’s radically changed conceptions of male beauty. David remembers that “back in the day, older male characters (known as ‘ajusshi’) looked like fathers in K-dramas, now they don’t: they have glowing, unwrinkled skin.” And now, a desire for flawless skin is driving up sales of BB creams, compacts, and tinted moisturizers among men: “women and men want to look like these people and they have perfect skin.”
Park Tae Yun is a South Korean makeup artist who works with the K-pop idol Rain, actors Chang Wook Ji and Byung Hun Lee, and the members of the pop group EXO– none of whom, he says, attend events without makeup. And most of whom are not afraid of eyeliner. Among the population at large though, he says, guys are mainly “seeking out natural looking coverage to even out their skin tone through products such as tinted moisturizers.” They’re not getting kohled-up.
“But K-pop stars are highly influential for Korean men in their 20s,” he says. “And I believe they are an even greater influence to Korean men past their 20s because they are concerned about aging and want to stay on top of the trends.” He adds finally, “It won’t be surprising to me if the US follows this trend.”
For a time, when David Cho was in the US military, he was stationed in South Korea. I ask him how the US soldiers in the barracks reacted to the Korean soliders’ use of facemasks and other beauty products. “Besides the friendly banter, like ‘are you a girl?’ nothing much. It was always friendly. These US soldiers living in Korea wanted to assimilate – even if they weren’t doing a ten-step routine, they did begin to try things.”
While it’s unlikely that men are going to be causing BB cream shortages across the US any time soon, 2016 could be the year makeup for men finally goes mainstream here, if our current K-beauty obsession continues. Watch 「The Sunday Styles」 section.
Author: Alice Newell-Hanson/Date: January 20, 2016/Source: https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/how-koreas-male-beauty-obsession-is-challenging-gender-norms